How to get rid of paspalum in your lawn

If you've got coarse, light-green clumps shooting up faster than the rest of your lawn — and tall seed stalks that keep coming back a few days after you mow — you've almost certainly got paspalum. It's one of the most stubborn summer grassy weeds in Australia, and the honest truth is there's no magic spray that wipes it out without touching your lawn. But you can absolutely beat it. This guide walks you through spotting paspalum, the realistic control methods (spot-spraying, digging, and smart mowing), and how to build turf thick enough that it never gets a foothold again.

How to identify paspalum

Getting the ID right matters, because paspalum is treated very differently from broadleaf weeds like bindii or clover. Killing it takes a grass-specific approach.

What paspalum looks like

Paspalum (Paspalum dilatatum, sometimes called dallis grass) gives itself away pretty quickly once you know the signs:

• Tall, coarse seed stalks that rocket up 30–60 cm between mows, way above the rest of your lawn.
• Sticky black seeds arranged along one side of the seed head — they cling to your shoes, the dog, and the mower.
• Wide, light-green blades that are noticeably coarser and paler than couch, buffalo or kikuyu.
• Dense clumps with a woody central crown, rather than spreading evenly like turf grass.
• A ring of leaves fanning out from the base, often flattening the lawn around it.

The key insight: Paspalum is a perennial with a deep, woody crown. Cut the top off and it just regrows. To actually kill it you have to destroy or poison the crown — not just the leaves.

Why paspalum is so hard to kill

If you've already tried a bottle of "lawn weed killer" and watched the paspalum shrug it off, you're not doing anything wrong. It's genuinely a difficult weed for three reasons.

• It's a perennial grass. Unlike annual weeds that die off after seeding, paspalum survives season to season from its crown. Knock it back and it returns from the base.
• The crown sits deep. That woody root ball is protected below soil level, so contact herbicides that only burn the leaves don't finish the job.
• The seeds spread easily. Those sticky black seeds hitch a ride on mower blades, boots and paws, so one plant left to seed can start a dozen new clumps across the yard.

The other catch: paspalum is a grass, and your lawn is a grass. Most selective herbicides that target broadleaf weeds do nothing to it, and the products that do hit grassy weeds tend to hit your turf too. That's why spot-treatment, not blanket spraying, is the realistic game plan.

The realistic control plan

There's no easy selective silver bullet for paspalum in most home lawns, so the winning approach is precision. Hit the individual clumps, spare the rest.

Option 1: Spot-spray with glyphosate (careful application)

Glyphosate is a non-selective knockdown — it kills any green plant it touches, including your lawn. Used carefully on individual clumps, it's the most reliable home option.

• Use a wick or a shielded spray, not a broadcast spray. A paint brush or a herbicide wick applicator lets you paint glyphosate straight onto the paspalum leaves without drift.
• Spray when it's actively growing — warm days from late spring through summer, when the plant is pulling the chemical down into the crown.
• Expect a dead patch. Glyphosate will leave a bare spot where the clump was, so plan to re-seed or plug that gap afterward.
• Give it 10–14 days to fully brown off before you dig or reseed.

Option 2: Paspalum-specific products where available

Some products marketed for grassy-weed control in lawns can suppress paspalum, and a few professional-grade selective options exist depending on your turf type and state. Availability changes, so read the label for your exact grass and always do a small test patch first.

Option 3: Dig out the crown

For small infestations or clumps you don't want to spray near garden beds, physical removal works — you just have to get the whole crown.

• Water the area first so the soil is soft.
• Dig a good 5–8 cm down and out around the clump to lift the entire woody crown and root ball.
• Bin it, don't compost it — especially if it's already seeded.
• Fill and reseed the hole so a new weed doesn't move into the bare patch.

Comparing your options

Mowing and prevention

Killing existing paspalum is only half the job. The other half is stopping it from seeding and making sure new plants can't establish.

Stop it setting seed

• Mow before the seed heads mature. If you can knock the stalks down before those black seeds ripen, you dramatically cut how much spreads.
• Bag your clippings while you're fighting paspalum, rather than mulching them back into the lawn.
• Clean your mower after mowing an infested lawn — brush the seeds off the deck and blades so you're not planting them next time.

Build turf too thick for it

Paspalum loves gaps, thin patches and compacted soil. A dense, healthy lawn is your best long-term defence.

• Feed and water consistently so your turf outcompetes weeds for light and space.
• Overseed or plug bare spots the moment they appear — bare soil is an open invitation.
• Aerate compacted areas so your grass roots deep and stays vigorous.

A note for buffalo lawns

Buffalo (soft-leaf varieties like Sir Walter) is sensitive to a lot of herbicides, so take extra care:

• Never blanket-spray a grassy-weed product over buffalo unless the label specifically names it as buffalo-safe — many will thin or kill it.
• Stick to spot-treatment with a wick or shielded applicator, keeping the chemical off the surrounding runners.
• Test a small area first and wait a couple of weeks before treating the rest.
• When in doubt with buffalo, digging out the crown is the safest route — no risk to your turf.

Frequently asked questions

Will normal lawn weed killer kill paspalum?

No. Standard "lawn weed killers" target broadleaf weeds and won't touch paspalum, which is a grass. You need a grass-specific product or careful spot-treatment with glyphosate.

Does paspalum die off in winter?

The top growth slows and browns in cold weather, but the crown survives underground and comes back stronger each summer. That's why it's a perennial problem, not a one-season one.

Can I just keep mowing paspalum out?

Mowing alone won't kill it — the crown sits below the cut line and regrows. But mowing before the seed heads mature does stop it spreading, which is a big part of getting on top of it.

How long does glyphosate take to kill paspalum?

You'll usually see yellowing within 5–7 days and full browning by 10–14 days. Wait until it's completely dead before digging out or reseeding the patch.

Is paspalum safe around buffalo grass?

Paspalum itself won't harm buffalo, but most sprays that kill paspalum can damage buffalo too. Use precise spot-treatment or hand-digging, and only use products that name buffalo as safe on the label.

How Lawnova helps you beat paspalum

Timing and turf type are everything with paspalum — spray too early and it won't take, use the wrong product on buffalo and you'll thin your lawn. Lawnova builds you a plan around your exact grass type, your region's climate, and the season, so you know when to spot-spray, when to mow, and how to thicken your turf so paspalum can't come back. No guesswork, just the right step at the right time.

Get your free Lawnova plan

You've got this — one clump at a time, your lawn wins.